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SERIES FOUR – Basting and Quilting
The fourth step in this quilting for beginners series is basting your quilt and quilting your quilt together. If this is your first time here check out these series first:
PART ONE – Selecting Fabric
PART TWO – Cutting Fabric
PART THREE – Assembling Quilt Top
PART FIVE – Binding & Finishing
Calculating Backing Fabric
Since I don’t purchase the fabric for the back of the quilt when I purchase the front fabric, I need to figure up how much backing I’ll need. To do this add at least 4″ than the size of your quilt top. I use 6″ to make sure I have enough. So my 102″ wide quilt top will make a 108″ wide back and my 108″ length will become a 112″ back. Now I need to convert my inches to yards. You can use a yardage calculator or just divide by 36″.
So for my quilt the back needs 3 yards across and 3.1 yards down. After I pick my fabric I’ll need to see how long the bolt is so I’ll know how many of the 3 yards I’ll need. The fabric I picked out is 44″ long. So I divide 112 by 44 and come up with a little over 2-1/2. So I figure I’ll need a a little more than 3 cuts of 3 yards. I went ahead and bought 10 yards because when I purchased on Joann.com it wouldn’t let me choose 9 yards.
Next you’ll need to sew the fabric together to make a full back. So for my quilt I’ll sew together the 3 yard strips and cut away the excess that I don’t need. You’ll sew the fabric together just as you did the front squares. You may have to piece together one to make a full row. I did. When you do this also go around the quilt and cut away the excess you don’t need.
Basting
Now you can baste the back to the front. You don’t have to use batting in a quilt especially if you’re using a soft fabric, but I prefer to use batting. For this quilt I’ll be using a medium loft batting. I think it’ll be fluffy like a quilt, but not too hot.
There are two ways to do this and I prefer the easier, though I’ve done both. One way is to use blue painters tape and tape the backing to the floor (good side down). You want the backing to be taunt but not too tight. Then you’ll place your batting in the middle (if you’re using batting). Then you’ll place your quilt front on top (good side up). In each square you’ll use safety pins and pin together the back to the front. Don’t pin your seams. This keeps everything in place when you sew your quilt together.
The other way to do this is by spray basting. This is my preferred method. A couple things to take in consideration is this is messy but take your time and the spray should be contained, and you’ll want to use this spray in a well ventilated area.
First you’ll lay your backing on the floor with the good side down. Use painters tape just as before, making it taunt. Place your batting on top (if you’re using batting). Lift up half the batting, and start spraying in about a 6-8″ section and press the batting on. Continue to do this until the entire back is glued to the batting. Let sit for about an hour so the glue can make a good bond. Repeat with the quilt top, make sure the quilt top is face up. You’ll still want the backing taped to the floor for this step.
Quilting
Next you’ll sew your quilt together. I use a method called machine ditch quilting. This just means we’ll be quilting in the ditches (or seams). There are SO many ways to quilt. One of the more forgiving quilting methods is doing diagonal stitches and it makes a pretty design on your quilt. I like the blocks so I’ll quilt just as I did the front. I think that quilting is the hardest part of the entire process because it’s the most detailed.
Before you begin you’ll want to chose a thread color that compliments your quilt. I meant to choose a sky blue that matched the back fabric, but I forgot and used white. This was a mistake because it shows up every flaw (and I have many).
This step is where a lot of quilters take their quilt to a professional seamstress. Most pros have a long arm sewing machine which allows an easier way to quilt a large quilt. Because your standard household sewing machine has a small throat, it’s hard to maneuver the quilt through it. I’ve found an easier way to quilt with a regular ol’ sewing machine, and its simple really. Just roll both sides up and start sewing in the middle. That’s it. Simple. Free motion quilting (what you’re doing here) is a hard technique to master.
There are a few tips I’ve found that help make your technique better.
- Go slow. Quilting should be about half the speed as sewing your blocks together, so go slower.
- This step takes multiple hours so don’t rush through it. Pace yourself.
- If you’re doing a large quilt, like a queen or king, put a table in front of you and behind you. This will help your quilt stay on the table and it not fall off the table causing drag.
- It’s inevitable your bobbin will run out of thread. There are two things you can do here. 1 – Check the bobbin after each line sewn, if low, replace the bobbin. 2 – when the bobbin runs out of thread, tie it off and rethread the bobbin and finish sewing.
Start by sewing one line down the middle and one line across the quilt, making a big plus sign to keep everything together. Then you’ll start quilting in the ditches of your quilt. Starting down one side in the middle, finishing it, and then moving to the next. Making complete blocks. The back sewing lines will match the fronts.
There are a few sewing errors you might run into and I wanted to show you what they could be.
- The back thread bunching up. This is sometimes caused by your machine not threaded right. I usually rethread my machine and it takes care of the problem.
- The top threads looking “loose”. This is caused sometimes by the bobbin not being in the case correctly.
This is how your thread should look (although my seam isn’t in the ditches, I thought this would be a clear picture to show the thread):
After you finishing quilting, you’ll want to go around your quilt and tidy it up. Removing any loose strings and tie off where your bobbin ran out of thread.
My quilt is NOT perfect at all. I have several problem places like where it bunched up in several places and my lines not being perfect. Don’t beat yourself up over this. You’re not a professional quilter. The more quilts you do, the better your technique will get. Focus on the fact that you can quilt!! That’s an awesome accomplishment!
And that’s it! You’ve finished putting your quilt together! The hardest part of the entire quilt is FINISHED!! Next we’ll bind the quilt and viola. Your quilt will be complete.
Supplies
Sewing Machine – First and foremost you’ll need a sewing machine to quilt. I have a very old Singer sewing machine, but at some point I’d like to upgrade. The sewing machine linked above is a great machine for quilting.
Fabric – You can go to sites like Amazon.com or Joanns.com. But I really like to select my fabric in person.
Sewing Machine Needles – I generally replace my needle every time I start a new quilt. This is probably overkill, but I want to make sure my needle is perfect for every quilt and they’re inexpensive.
Sewing Thread – You’ll need a quilting grade thread for your quilt.
Self-Healing Cutting Mat & Rotary Cutter – The set I have linked here is a great starting set. It comes with the same self-healing cutting mat and rotary cutter I have.
Square Template – I like the look of the 6″ squares (with 1/4″ seams) so I use the 6-1/2″ template. You can pick whatever size you’re happy with.
Fabric Shears – Fabric Scissors are generally more sharp and give a straight cut.
Quarter Inch Presser Foot – This is optional. it is a great tool to have to help make perfect 1/4″ seams.
Batting – Batting is what is sandwiched in between your top layer and your back layer of fabric. You don’t have to use batting if you’re looking for a lighter quilt, but I like to use a thin batting to give it some extra fluff.
Quilting Pins – You’ll use A LOT of these to pin your quilt and add the backing. Stock up! I also use large safety pins too. I actually purchased some quilting clips for this quilt. I LOVE them. I like them better than the pins for binding, and the little tin is adorable!
Basting Spray – I like basting spray because it temporarily holds my quilt together while I sew it. Not all quilters use it, but it makes things simpler I think.
Iron – Some people iron their fabric before they cut, I don’t do this. But I do iron the seams after I have sewn my rows. I use an old hand-me-down iron, but the iron I have linked is one that’s on my wishlist!
Painters Tape – When you baste your quilt you’ll want the backing to be flat on the floor so you can baste it more easily. Some people also use it on their sewing machine as a guide (kinda like a ridge so when the fabric hits it, it doesn’t go past the line) when they sew their 1/4″ seams.
Water Soluble Pen – I use this pen when I’m marking my row numbers on the back of my fabric. If you’ve got a complicated pattern you’re stitching together, this comes in handy. It washes right off the fabric when you wash the quilt.
Patience – there’s no link for this one, but you’ll need lots of patience. Don’t rush through it. Enjoy the process and making something beautiful with your hands!
Stayed tuned for the next series on how to bind your quilt!!
