Quilting for Beginners Part Three – Assembling Quilt Top 1

SERIES THREE – Assembling Quilt Top

The third step in this quilting for beginners series is designing your quilt top, sewing rows, nesting seams, and completing the quilt top. See other steps here: 
Part 1 – Selecting Fabric
Part 2 – Cutting Fabric
Part 4 – Basting & Quilting
Part 5 – Binding & Finishing 

Assembly

The next step after your squares are cut is assembling your quilt top. I usually do this on our living room floor that way I can see the squares laid out together, and make sure I’m happy with the pattern. My grandmother-in-law lays hers out in her sunroom and looks at it several days in a row to make sure she’s happy with the layout. My cat would have it all messed up if I laid it out more than an hour, lol.  I start with the stacks of fabric and work my way down keeping two things in mind.
1 – I never let the same patterns touch.
2 – I itemize each pattern out with my eyes, focusing on a certain pattern, and make sure they’re spaced out evenly. I start by doing my boldest colors and work my way down to my soft filler colors. For example I started with pattern 1 and made sure it was even, moved to pattern two and made sure it was even, then moved to the blue and made sure it was even. 

This is how I started:

This is what I ended up with:

Stacking Up Rows

The next step is to stack up your rows so that you can sew them in the right position. This step takes a lot of coordination, and I am very meticulous on how I do this. I want to be sure I sew my quilt top with my patterns not only in the right locations, but also my squares are faced the right direction. Most quilters take up their rows across, I take up my squares in columns. It’s your preference, but I like doing the columns. To take up the squares, I start on the far left row and use a quilting marker and number the back of the top square with a one, the top square of the second row a two, and so on and so forth.

Next I’ll lay the top square (pattern face down) on the floor, just like shown above. Then I’ll go down the row adding the squares until my entire row one is complete. During this process I make sure that I flip my pattern fabrics over the right way. After my entire row is up, I’ll flip it over and put a piece of paper with which row it is. This helps me to know where my rows end and where the new ones begin.

Sewing Rows (or Columns)

Next step is to sew your quilt top together. I’m going to explain how I have my machine set up as well. I have no clue if this is the “correct” way, but it seems to work for me. Remember, I have an older sewing machine (like 80’s or 90’s model I think) so my settings may differ from yours. Set your stitch to the straight dashes, your needle to be in the middle (not the left or right), dashed seams, #2 spaced stitches, #3 on the thread tightness. Also, I use a 90/14 sewing needle. Here is a not-so-great quality picture of my settings below. 

Remember to choose a color thread that compliments your quilt. I almost always use white for my quilts, just because I have such a variant of colors. You will want a quilt grade thread. I have some thread that was passed down to me from an older lady who passed away about 15 years ago, and her sewing kit had some quilt grade thread in there; however, you don’t want to use old thread either because over time it becomes brittle and breaks easily. You want your thread to be a good grade and quality so your quilt will last longer.

Now that your sewing machine is set up, it’s time to stitch your rows. Remember a couple things – backstitch at the start of your seam and at the end. It holds up better. Backstitching is where you start you start your stitch in the right direction, then stitch backwards, then normal. Your sewing machine should have the option for backstitching (on my machine it’s on the far right, and it’s a button). 

Your squares need to be “book matched”, so the right sides will be facing each other. Also, make sure your directions are right if you have a directional print. You’ll basically turn the directional print upside down and backwards. This is how a directional print goes:

Make sure when you sew your squares you use 1/4″ seam allowance. I have it marked on my sewing machine, and it’s at the end of my presser foot, see below.

Sew your seams as precise as you can. Remember a quilt is like a puzzle and the pieces (squares) will need to fit together pretty close.

Once I get my first row, I’ll pin the “Row 1” note on the top square (to know which square is the top one of the row), and start on the next. Once you get your rows sewn, it’ll be time to sew your rows together.

Next you’ll press your seams. Because I do my rows as columns (up and down), I press all my seams down, but if you do rows you’ll want to press each row in alternating directions (first row press seams left, second row press seams right, etc). You’ll take your iron and PRESS down on the seams. DO NOT IRON, make sure you press. This way your quilt top will lay flat on your quilt. Some people open up the seams and press them in opposite directions, I don’t do this, but it’s not wrong. 

Sewing Rows to Make Quilt Top 

Just as you did with the squares, you’ll sew the rows together with 1/4″ seam allowance. Some people pin the rows together with either quilting pins or large safety pins. I skip this step, I feel like it’s easier for me to do it by hand by matching up the squares. I just match up the seams together and sew away. One way to do this is by nesting the seams, after you’ve pressed you can nest your seams by taking the seams in your hand with right sides faced together (that you’re about to sew together) and gently rub the seams together until you feel them “lock” into position. You’ll hold the seams like this until you finish sewing that square and move on to the next one. You’ll find a rhythm and figure out how you feel more comfortable doing it. My squares are NOT perfect, but I feel like this is the way I’m comfortable doing it and I’m not entering any quilting contests, lol. If I pinned them together, I’m sure it would be a lot more accurate. I just don’t feel like that works for me. Meh, maybe the more I quilt I’ll want to do this step instead of skip it… Regardless, you do what works for you. I’ve been told there isn’t really a right way and a wrong way in quilting. There’s just preferred methods. 

And that’s it! That’s how you make your quilt top. Easy peasy, right? Just take it step by step and it’s really simple. If you’re at this point you’re over halfway finished. Sewing the quilt top together takes the most time. I hope you found this Quilting for Beginners Part Three useful! The next step we’ll go over is batting and sewing on your quilt backing. 

Supplies

Sewing Machine – First and foremost you’ll need a sewing machine to quilt. I have a very old Singer sewing machine, but at some point I’d like to upgrade. The sewing machine linked above is a great machine for quilting.

Fabric – You can go to sites like Amazon.com or Joanns.com. But I really like to select my fabric in person.

Sewing Machine Needles – I generally replace my needle every time I start a new quilt. This is probably overkill, but I want to make sure my needle is perfect for every quilt and they’re inexpensive.

Sewing Thread – You’ll need a quilting grade thread for your quilt.

Self-Healing Cutting Mat & Rotary Cutter – The set I have linked here is a great starting set. It comes with the same self-healing cutting mat and rotary cutter I have.

Square Template – I like the look of the 6″ squares (with 1/4″ seams) so I use the 6-1/2″ template. You can pick whatever size you’re happy with.

Fabric Shears – Fabric Scissors are generally more sharp and give a straight cut.

Quarter Inch Presser Foot – This is optional. it is a great tool to have to help make perfect 1/4″ seams.

Batting – Batting is what is sandwiched in between your top layer and your back layer of fabric. You don’t have to use batting if you’re looking for a lighter quilt, but I like to use a thin batting to give it some extra fluff.

Quilting Pins – You’ll use A LOT of these to pin your quilt and add the backing. Stock up! I also use large safety pins too. I actually purchased some quilting clips for this quilt. I LOVE them. I like them better than the pins for binding. And the little tin is adorable!

Basting Spray – I like basting spray because it temporarily holds my quilt together while I sew it. Not all quilters use it, but it makes things simpler I think.

Iron – Some people iron their fabric before they cut, I don’t do this. But I do iron the seams after I have sewn my rows. I use an old hand-me-down iron, but the iron I have linked is one that’s on my wishlist! 

Painters Tape – When you baste your quilt you’ll want the backing to be flat on the floor so you can baste it more easily. Some people also use it on their sewing machine as a guide (kinda like a ridge so when the fabric hits it, it doesn’t go past the line) when they sew their 1/4″ seams. 

Water Soluble Pen – I use this pen when I’m marking my row numbers on the back of my fabric. If you’ve got a complicated pattern you’re stitching together, this comes in handy. It washes right off the fabric when you wash the quilt. 

Patience – there’s no link for this one, but you’ll need lots of patience. Don’t rush through it. Enjoy the process and making something beautiful with your hands!

Stayed tuned for the next series on how to add your batting and how to baste your quilt!

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